With winter well upon us, we sometimes need more than a fire and our loved ones to keep us warm. A hearty stew can do the trick! Growing up, I remember eating lots of stew and potatoes, I’m Irish. I was always in awe of the large pressure cooker whistling away on the stove, that I was warned never to touch while under pressure. I carried that fear for many years. Nevertheless, my mom’s stew was incredibly tender, quick and hearty, perfect for a cold winter’s night.

The basic technique is simple, slow and flavourful. You can of course save time by using a pressure cooker or even a slow cooker. For me, a good stew needs to nursed, slowly simmered, tenderizing the meat and creating a rich, thick, flavourful broth.

Stewing, a cooking method that combines both moist and dry heat is very similar to braising. The main difference being that braising is reserved for larger cuts of meat, while stewing is usually associated with smaller bite sized morsels.

Stew Meat
There are two main types of stews, brown and white. Brown stews are prepared much like a braised dish, with the meat being seasoned, dusted with flour and browned in fat then slowly cooked in a flavourful liquid. To complicate things a little more, white stews can be fricassees and blanquettes. For a fricassee, the meat is cooked in hot fat without colouring and then cooked with aromatics and liquid. With a blanquette, the meat is first blanched, rinsed and then added to the cooking liquid. No matter what colour of stew you are preparing, the end results should be very tender, flavourful meat, a smooth rich flavourful sauce and perfectly cooked accompaniments!

The Basics of a Brown Stew
Red meats, lamb and game are great for this style of stew. Cubed pieces of meat are seasoned and dusted in flour. The meat is then well browned in oil on all sides. Onions and garlic can then be added and lightly browned as well. Flour is then added to the mix, and cooked to make a brown roux. The roux will help to thicken the liquid as it simmers. Return the beef and juices to the pot; slowly add the liquid to the roux while stirring to prevent lumps. Next, the aromatics are added, a bouquet of herbs, sachets of spices, tomato paste etc, this is a chance to add your own unique touch to a basic recipe. The stew is then covered and simmered until the meat is tender. Other ingredients such as vegetables and potatoes should be added at the proper time during cooking so they will be done when the meat is tender. Once the stew is finished, remove any inedible aromatics, and adjust the seasoning as needed.

The Basics of a White Stew
Cubed pieces of meat and usually an onion are sautéed in oil, cooking without browning. They are then seasoned and sprinkled with flour, to cook and make a blond roux. Gradually liquid is added, stirring to prevent lumps, brought to a boil and reduced to a simmer. Seasonings and aromatics are added, the stew is then covered and cooked, being careful not to burn or scorch the stew. It is cooked until the meat is fork tender and any vegetables added are just cooked through. If the sauce is too thin, the meat can be removed and kept hot while the liquid is thickened by reduction, with a roux or slurry of cornstarch or arrowroot. Adjust the seasoning to taste and serve.

The Basics of a Blanquette
Traditionally made with veal, blanquettes can also be made with poultry, rabbit and even lamb. Cubed pieces of meat are placed in a pot, covered with cold water, salt and brought quickly to a boil. Drain the water and remove any impurities from the meat. Return the meat to the pot, and add enough white stock to cover. Add aromatics, herbs and seasonings, then simmer until tender. Strain the meat from the stock, remove inedible aromatics, bring the stock back to a boil and thicken it with a blond roux, simmering for 15-20 minutes. If any vegetables are going to be added, they should be cooked separately and added to the finished stew before serving. Adjust the seasoning with a few drops of fresh lemon juice and good old s&p.

A few things to remember!

• Because stewing uses moist heat to tenderize, you can take advantage of less expensive cuts with great flavour. Cuts of shoulder, neck, leg and shank are perfect candidates, not to say that you couldn’t braise more tender cuts from the loin as well. They should be trimmed of excess fat and connective tissues and cut into cubes roughly 1 to 2 inches in size.
• Keep in mind that stews get the majority of their flavour from the cooking liquid and the aromatics, so don’t skimp on the ingredients, the end results will be worth it! I’ve said it before, cooking your stew slow and gently is key! Once the cooking liquid has been added, the stew should simmer and not be allowed to boil! This can be done either on the stove top or ideally covered in the oven.
• Your stew is finished cooking when the meat is fork tender and the vegetables are tender crisp. Timing is important here, if your vegetables go into the stew too early, they will be mushy by the time the meat is tender, too late and they won’t be cooked!
• Finally, stews are often a complete meal with meat, vegetables and starch all happily simmered together, each flavouring the other. Stews can of course be made without potatoes and could be served over potatoes, rice or pasta or other grains instead.

Now hit the kitchen and start perfecting the basics. Try adding some new flavours to an old stew recipe and warm your family on a cold winter’s eve with a flavourful, tender and hearty bowl of stew!

Chef Ryan Skelton

Try Chef Ryan's Southwest Beef Stew recipe!

This is certainly not a traditional stew recipe, but it uses the same technique. The banana, chipotle peppers and spices add a sweet smoky flavour to this stew, while the corn, sweet potato and fresh cilantro help round out the south western twist with a surprise chocolate finish!